One fabric that I get a lot of questions about is double gauze. It’s a lovely, soft, and bouncy fabric that comes in some really pretty prints, but is it suitable for making doll clothes? Let’s find out!
What is double gauze?
Double gauze is typically made from 100% cotton and consists of two layers of fine, open-weave cotton gauze. The layers are held together at regular intervals with tiny stitches, creating pockets of air between them. The result is a lightweight, airy, and soft fabric with a slightly crinkled look. Some double gauze is more textured than others. You can often find it in pretty muted tones or with gold embellishments stuck to it which adds a special touch
Buying Good Quality Double Gauze
Double gauze is one of those fabrics where it pays to spend a little more for higher quality. The cheaper versions can have a really loose weave and might fray more than you'd like. Stay away from anything that feels too thin or fragile, and always check the edges for any fraying or loose threads. A little fraying is normal, but too much can mean the weave isn't as tight as it should be
If you don't have a fabric shop nearby and you are shopping online, especially from new suppliers, I recommend looking for double gauze fabric that is OEKO-TEX certified. This certification means the fabrics have passed strict testing and quality control measures, which usually means you're usually getting good quality fabric
Choosing the right sewing pattern
Given the small scale of doll clothing, selecting the right sewing pattern is important when working with double gauze. Stay away from patterns that have complex designs or are meant for delicate, flowing fabrics because double gauze will be too bulky and won't drape well. Embrace the soft, crinkly texture of double gauze with relaxed styles that really show it off. Go for clothes that are a bit looser, not too tight. The daisy dress pattern, with its loose fit and simple shape, is perfect for double gauze
Washing and Pressing
Pre-washing double gauze is essential if you think you may need to wash the doll’s clothes in the future, as it has a tendency to shrink
When pressing, use a low heat setting on your iron and press gently to avoid flattening the fabric's texture. Always test on a scrap piece first to ensure the temperature is suitable. Don’t press too hard, as this can distort the fabric
Cutting
Double gauze is more prone to unraveling and fraying at the raw edges than some other fabrics. When cutting, handle it carefully to prevent snagging. Use fine pins and try to pin within the seam allowance as much as possible to avoid leaving holes in the fabric
Needle
A regular 70/12 or 80/12 needle works fine with double gauze. I recommend using a new, sharp needle to help prevent snags and pulls in the fabric
Sewing
Due to its thickness and loose weave, double gauze can sometimes be drawn into the feed dogs of your sewing machine, causing it to get “eaten.” Its uneven texture can also cause fabric creep, where one layer feeds through the machine at a different rate than the other, resulting in rippled seams
Using a walking foot can help manage these issues, but it isn’t necessary. Lowering the presser foot pressure can also prevent the fabric from being pressed too firmly against the feed dogs, reducing stretching or distortion
A slightly longer stitch length, around 3mm, works well with double gauze. Avoid sewing too close to the raw edge, as this can cause the fabric to get caught and sucked under the plate. If this happens, try placing a piece of tear-away stabiliser under the beginning of the seams for added stability. Using stabiliser under the entire seam can also prevent puckering and ensure even stitching
Use sewing clips or extra fine pins to keep your fabric together while sewing - it's a great way to avoid leaving any holes in your fabric!
Finishing
Since double gauze is prone to fraying, finishing your seams properly is crucial. Use an overlocker or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. I prefer to shorten the stitch length slightly to create a tighter zigzag, helping to keep the fibers intact and prevent unraveling. Using pinking shears where recommended can also help reduce bulk and maintain a neat finish
By following these tips, you can successfully use double gauze fabric to create beautiful, soft, and stylish doll clothes that showcase this unique fabric’s qualities
Happy sewing!
